At Santa Barbara Aquatics, we recognize that selecting the ideal dive computer is akin to choosing a dependable dive buddy. It's not merely gear; it's your underwater guide, your source of critical information, and your safety net beneath the waves. Within the world of dive computers, Shearwater Research shines as a beacon of innovation and excellence. In this all-encompassing guide, we'll introduce the unique features of Shearwater dive computers, helping you discover the perfect match for your distinct diving style. 

Before diving into the specifics, let's explore the benefits that set Shearwater apart:

• Color Screens: Enjoy vibrant and easy-to-read displays that enhance your diving experience.
• Ease of Use: Shearwater dive computers are designed with intuitive menus, making navigation a breeze.
• Highest Quality and Customer Service: Shearwater is synonymous with quality, and their dedicated customer service is unparalleled.
• Made by Divers for Divers: Shearwater dive computers are crafted with the insights and expertise of divers, ensuring they meet real-world diving needs, whether you dive once a year on vacation or are a dedicated tech diver.

Shearwater's most compact dive computer, the Tern, provides convenience and versatility for sport divers:

• Color Screen: Full color, high-contrast AMOLED display.
• Sleek Profile: Robust, modern design in a watch format.
• Rechargeable Battery: Charge via USB-C for easy dive prep.
• 4 Buttons, Easy Menu: Intuitive interface.
• Customizable Layout: Tailor the dive and clock displays to suit your preferences.
• Advanced TX Features: The Tern TX offers air integration via Swift transmitters, as well as a digital compass.
• Multiple Dive Modes: Offers air, nitrox, 3 gas nitrox, gauge and freediving modes.

Recreational divers wanting a simple, compact, versatile dive computer will find the Shearwater Tern and Tern TX dive computers to be the perfect dive accessory.

The Teric is perfect for divers who seek versatility and style in one package. With the option to connect up to two transmitters, you're in complete control of your diving experience, whether you're exploring wrecks or navigating intricate underwater landscapes.

Designed for those who appreciate the beauty of straightforward functionality, the Perdix 3 offers multiple gas switching, nitrox, and trimix support. Its customization options ensure you view only the critical data you need. Whether you're embarking on warm-water dives or venturing into deeper depths, the Perdix 3 is your unwavering partner.

Shearwater manufactures high-quality dive computers that suit a wide variety of needs. Divers buying their first computer should consider the Peregrine or Peregrine TX. Beginners who want a sleeker design and greater versatility may opt for the Tern or Tern TX. Advanced divers looking for something to support them through the entirety of their diving journey will love the Teric and Perdix 3. These computers have higher level features and support technical diving. The Petrel 3 is perfect for rebreather divers who need advanced technical features. The unique design of the Nerd 2 lends itself well to divers that keep busy underwater and would benefit from having a heads-up display.

If you need help selecting the perfect dive computer or have any questions, visit the experts at Santa Barbara Aquatics. 

Nothing can ruin the excitement of a planned dive faster than arriving at the site only to discover a critical piece of equipment is malfunctioning, broken, or simply not performing as expected. A pre-season scuba gear check is essential not only for enjoyment but, more importantly, for your safety and the safety of your dive buddies. This involves getting some of your gear serviced and thoroughly inspecting the rest. In this guide, we will walk you through a pre-season gear check so you can kick off the season with peace of mind.

If your regulator is within its service interval but you are pulling it out of winter storage, you should still verify that it is running flawlessly. Get a scuba tank and pressurize your regulator. 

• Listen for any leaks from the second stage. If possible, submerge the second stage in water and look for bubbles. If there is a slight leak, try increasing second stage resistance, and soaking it to loosen any debris stuck in the valve seat. If this doesn't help, bring it to a dive shop, as there may be an issue with the intermediate pressure.
• Breathe from both second stages, notice any abnormalities.
• Hit the purge button to confirm there is no sticking.
• Take a look at the mouthpieces, scan for wear and replace if necessary.
• Examine the dust cap for defects.
• Evaluate hoses for any cracks, checking under hose protectors as well.
• Ensure the quick disconnect on the low pressure BCD hose moves smoothly.

A great way to diagnose leaks or cracks in the system is to get a bottle of soapy water and spray it on your equipment. Bubbling indicates air leaking, and something that needs addressed. If any issues arise in your pre-season check, bring it to your local dive shop for professional advice. 

Local divers who own scuba tanks must get them inspected regularly. A visual inspection (VIP) by a technician must be performed annually. After taking a look at the outside of the tank for visual flaws, they open the tank to look for corrosion, pitting, and denting. The valve is scanned for any damage. Both O-rings are replaced. 

Given the cylinder passes, a sticker is placed on the tank indicating the month and year. As long as the tank is within its hydrostatic testing period, you are able to fill it until the first of the month one year later. For example, if your current visual sticker is marked as May of 2025, it is due for service again on May 1st of 2026.

Every five years, tanks must be sent in for hydrostatic testing. Tanks are filled with water and pressurized to 5/3 of their working pressure to measure expansion, which indicates structural integrity. If the tank passes, the neck is stamped with the month and year. This stamp also means that it has cleared a visual inspection.

Tank upkeep is crucial for your health and safety. Dive shops will check to make sure that your tank is up-to-date on testing, so if you are not on top of it, your tank will not be filled. Many dive shops send tanks out for hydrostatic testing, so give yourself enough time to be dive-ready!

The general recommendation for computer servicing is every year or two, depending on the manufacturer’s recommendation. Technicians will replace the battery and O-rings, clean any buildup, and run a pressure test. You can ensure your computer is ready for diving season by charging it up or replacing the battery before you head out for your first dive. Don’t forget to bring your charger, or backup batteries in your kit! 

When you are checking your regulator before diving season, take a look at the gauge as well. While your regulator is connected to air, glance over the high pressure hose for cracks using the soapy water method. If there is air leaking near the base of the gauge, the high pressure spool may need to be swapped out (same goes for console computers). Inspect the covering of your gauge for any cracks. Confirm that the pressure gauge is working properly while hooked up to the tank. Test the compass by turning it and verifying that the needle moves correctly by comparing it to another compass, such as the one on your phone. If anything seems off, have your local dive shop take a peek. 

For any gear that requires professional servicing, especially regulators, BCDs, or tanks, plan ahead of time. Service centers often experience a rush as the diving season begins, so bringing your equipment in well in advance will prevent frustrating delays. Proper maintenance not only extends the life of your expensive equipment but also ensures peak performance and, most importantly, your safety underwater. 

If your gear is getting old and questionable, don't be afraid to replace it. At Santa Barbara Aquatics, you can trade in your old gear for a discount on select new items. 

For any questions about servicing your gear, please do not hesitate to contact us directly. We are here to help you get your gear dive-ready!

As divers, we explore the underwater world, a place we couldn't reach without specialized equipment. Most divers start by renting gear, but eventually buy their own to ensure a comfortable fit and to meet their specific needs. There are many variations of gear. For example, BCDs come in jacket, back-inflate or backplate and wing styles. When choosing wetsuits, divers consider thickness, along with features like wrist or ankle zippers and special thermal technologies. In this post, we will discuss the difference between a standard diving octopus and an integrated octo, and explain why diving with an integrated octo simplifies your setup and enhances your diving experience.

As a diver, you should regularly think about responding to emergency situations, even though they are uncommon. Being a good diver means being a safe diver. However, when something goes wrong on a dive, it can be shocking and cause panic. Having an integrated octo can simplify sharing air. It’s common for the panicked diver to swim up to their buddy and grab for their primary regulator. If this happens, the donor knows that their integrated octo is right on their chest. Most divers are comfortable reaching for their inflator anyways, so the movement to grab the integrated octo feels natural as opposed to pulling the traditional octo out of the pocket. 

When it comes to diving gear, lighter and less is better. When traveling, integrated octos are simpler to pack down. Instead of carrying a whole extra hose and second stage, you can fold up the integrated octo with your BCD. Some models even have a threaded attachment to the corrugated hose so that you can keep the integrated octo with your more sensitive and fragile gear in your regulator bag. When you’re ready to dive, simply screw it back- no specialized tools or effort needed!

• Atomic SS1: Available in titanium or stainless steel, the Atomic SS1 fits virtually any BCD and comes in multiple colors for visibility. It has a threaded collar to detach easily from the BCD for storage and travel. It is low maintenance with a 2 year service interval.

• Scubapro Air 2: Scubapro's integrated octo has large buttons for safe and easy operation and features a dive/pre-dive switch to prevent surface free flows.

• Tusa Duo Air 2: This air balanced power inflator has a large purge button and low profile mouthpiece for easy operation.

Choosing the right dive computer—whether it's your first or a major upgrade—can be daunting given the many options available. To make a smart, informed decision and select a model that perfectly matches your diving style, you need to understand the critical features that distinguish various models. This guide will explore the top 8 most important features to consider, helping you elevate your underwater experiences.

Your choice of computer should align with your diving experience and needs. Consider the modes offered when comparing models.

• Beginner/Recreational Divers: Typically need basic modes (Air, Gauge, simple Nitrox).

• Advanced Divers: Should look for computers supporting 3-Gas Nitrox.

• Technical Divers: Require advanced modes such as Open Circuit tech (for multi-gas and Trimix use) and potentially Closed Circuit Rebreather (CCR) capacity.

Other Modes: Consider models with Freediving/Apnea mode or other sport modes for multi-functionality. Look to brands like Garmin for computers with technical diving modes, smart features, health tracking and many sport modes.

A dive computer's primary function is to keep you safe and within limits. Ensure the computer provides all necessary safety alarms (e.g., fast ascent, deep stop, safety stop, excessive depth).

Pay attention to how the computer alerts you. Options include visual displays, audible beeps, and vibration—or a combination of these. Select a method that reliably catches your attention.

An integrated digital compass is brighter and easier to use than analog models. Models with both air integration and a digital compass eliminates the need for a console entirely. Check out our favorites below!

• Battery Replaceable: Traditional models often have replaceable batteries that typically last longer. Replacement may require a dive retailer's expertise, while some are easily user changeable. Just make sure to ensure proper sealing against water intrusion. If traveling to remote areas without reliable charging access, a replaceable battery option might be the way to go, or at least as a backup!
  
  

• Rechargeable: Popular with travelers and frequent divers, as they are easily charged after each dive and eliminate the need to pack spare o-rings and batteries. 

Maintaining your scuba equipment might not be the most glamorous part of the sport, but it’s absolutely essential for performance, safety, and the longevity of your gear. In this guide, we’ll walk through how to properly clean, dry, inspect, service and store your gear so you’re always ready for your next underwater adventure.

After a long day underwater, giving your scuba gear a thorough clean is one of the most important things you can do to protect your investment—and your safety. Let’s be honest—cleaning your gear right after a dive might sound like a chore, but it pays off. Because there’s nothing more satisfying than a post-dive nap knowing your wetsuit isn’t fermenting in the back of your car.

Fortunately, the process is straightforward. Avoid using harsh chemicals; if you want to go beyond fresh water, look for cleaning products specifically designed for dive gear. You'll need a water source (like a hose, faucet, or shower head) and a large container (such as a large bin, deep sink, or bathtub) to get started.

Neoprene gear collects salt, sweat, and bacteria throughout your dives, so it’s essential to give it a proper clean to maintain its flexibility and longevity.

Start by rinsing off any heavy debris with a hose. Then, fill a bin with cool or lukewarm fresh water and soak your wetsuit, boots, and gloves. Never use hot water—it can damage the neoprene fibers. If you're using a cleaning solution, choose one made specifically for neoprene and follow the instructions closely.

Make sure all zippers and Velcro tabs are open to allow for thorough cleaning. Gently massage and agitate the gear in the water. If the water becomes murky, repeat the rinse.

To dry your wetsuit, turn it inside out and hang it on a thick, wide hanger in a well-ventilated area. Do not wring it out. For a quicker dry, wait about 30 minutes, then gently squeeze water from the wrists and ankles, where it tends to collect. Using a fan can help accelerate drying. Boots and gloves will dry faster—use a hanger designed for dive gear to keep everything organized.

Rinse all your accessories with fresh water to remove salt and sand. Unroll your Surface Marker Buoy (SMB), soak it, and drain any water inside by pressing or pulling the valve depending on the model. Hang to dry thoroughly before storing.

For dive lights, rinse carefully, and if you use retractors, submerge them and pull the cord in and out to flush out grit and prevent future jams. Open and close boltsnaps underwater to keep them from sticking due to salt buildup. Computers should be rinsed; press down on buttons if applicable.

Do not press the purge button unless the system is pressurized, or water could be forced into the hoses. If fully pressurized, feel free to tap the purge button to assist cleaning. Move the venturi switch or knob back and forth to clean around the mechanism. Also, slide back the quick disconnect on your Low-Pressure Inflator (LPI) hose to rinse it.

For the mouthpiece, you can use a mild soap or sanitizing solution like Steramine. When finished, hang the regulator to dry with the second stages positioned to allow water to drain completely. Once dry, store it in a padded case for protection.

Add a bit of air to the bladder so the water can circulate freely. Rotate and gently shake the BCD to help water move through all internal areas. Open each dump valve one at a time, while the BCD is tilted to make the valve the lowest point, to drain the water—this helps clean the valves and internal pathways. Soak the inflator in fresh water, pressing both inflate and deflate buttons to prevent sticky buttons on your next dive.

When finished, fully drain all water, then partially inflate the BCD (about halfway) to keep the inner walls from sticking together. Hang to dry!

Choose a well-ventilated space to dry everything. If you're short on space, a bathroom with an exhaust fan will do. An outdoor shaded area is even better, as long as the weather is dry and not too humid. Avoid direct sunlight, which can degrade materials and fade colors.

Use hangers made specifically for dive gear to keep everything organized and drying efficiently.

Cleaning time is a great opportunity to inspect your gear. When you're familiar with your equipment, you'll likely notice anything out of the ordinary—but it’s smart to do a quick once-over:

• Fins & Mask : Check for cracks, torn straps, or worn buckles.

• Neoprene : Look for tears or thinning areas; neoprene cement can patch minor damage.

• BCD : If it's not holding air, check for leaks, punctures, or worn seams. Inspect buckles and straps for integrity.

• Regulator & Snorkel : Examine the mouthpieces for wear or bite damage—always carry spares. Check regulator hoses for cracks or dry rot.

• Computer: Check for screen cracks, issues with strap.

• Tank : Look at the O-ring for wear or deformation.

Even though you'll do a pre-dive check next time out, catching issues now gives you time for repairs or replacements and ensures you're ready for the next adventure.

While rinsing and drying your gear after every dive is essential, annual maintenance performed by a qualified technician is critical for ensuring your scuba equipment stays reliable and safe. 

• Your regulator is your most complex and important piece of life-support gear—it should be inspected, disassembled, cleaned, and serviced at least once a year or according to the manufacturer’s guidelines. This includes replacing O-rings, inspecting internal components for corrosion or wear, checking hose integrity, and testing for proper airflow and pressure balance. Even if your regulator seems to be functioning well, internal corrosion or salt buildup can lead to serious failures if not addressed in time. Most regulators are due for service annually, while some manufacturers such as Atomic Aquatics have service intervals of two or three years.
• Your BCD also requires annual maintenance beyond routine rinsing. A technician will inspect the internal bladder for leaks or signs of deterioration, test the inflator and dump valves for proper operation, and ensure that the low-pressure inflator connection is secure and functioning. Inflator and valve assemblies may be taken apart, cleaned, and re-lubricated as needed. 
• Lastly, your dive computer should be checked to confirm that software is up to date, buttons are responsive, and battery levels are sufficient. Many models require battery replacement annually or after a certain number of dives. If the battery isn't user-replaceable, send it to an authorized service center to avoid damaging seals or voiding warranties. Technicians may also simulate a dive to ensure that the sensors, alarms, and other functions are working appropriately. Keeping up with this yearly maintenance not only ensures your gear works when you need it—it also extends its lifespan and keeps your dives safe and stress-free. Stop by your local dive shop to learn more about servicing near you!

In addition to annual servicing and routine cleaning, it’s a smart idea to carry a personal maintenance or “save-a-dive” kit —a small collection of essential tools and spare parts that can prevent a minor issue from ruining a dive day. A well-stocked kit typically includes spare mouthpieces, O-rings, zip ties, fin straps, mask straps, silicone grease, a small multi-tool or hex wrench, and perhaps even a snorkel keeper or low-pressure inflator plug. These items are lightweight, inexpensive, and easy to store in your dive bag, but they can be lifesavers when dealing with last-minute equipment hiccups at the dive site. Knowing how to make quick, simple fixes not only keeps your dives on track—it also makes you a more prepared and valuable dive buddy.

The Channel Islands—often called the “Galápagos of North America”—offer some of Southern California’s most stunning scuba diving. Nestled off the coast of Ventura and Santa Barbara, these isles are part of Channel Islands National Park and Channel Islands National Marine Sanctuary , together introducing over 1,470 sq mi of protected ocean habitat.

• Anacapa Island State Marine Reserve and Conservation Area : The north side of the islets is a fully protected marine reserve where removal of living creatures is prohibited—including the wrecks of the WWII Avenger plane and the paddle-steamer Winfield Scott 

• Surrounding waters are part of NOAA’s Channel Islands National Marine Sanctuary , extending several nautical miles offshore and protecting deep-sea coral, kelp forests, historic shipwrecks, and marine species. It overlaps with the National Park waters near the islands

Powered by the meeting of the cold California Current and warmer Davidson Countercurrent, the waters here support extraordinary biodiversity.

Anacapa Island

• Popular shallow dives: Landing Cove, Underwater Arch, Aquarium, and Rat Rock. These sites lie in protected kelp forest and reef between 25–60 ft, often with visibility from 20 ft up 100 ft. 

• Advanced sites on the west side and offshore pinnacles offer depths up to 120 ft, stronger currents, and encounters with giant black sea bass.

Santa Cruz Island

• Gull Island , just offshore, is a renowned marine reserve with rocky reefs filled with kelp bass, sheephead, purple hydrocoral, lobsters, sea lions, and vibrant seastars. Depths range from ~20–110 ft with 20–80 ft visibility.

• Other notable dives include Yellow Banks, Diablo Anchorage (sea cave diving), West End Pinnacles, and Flame Reef.

While Anacapa and Santa Cruz are the most accessible, adventurous divers shouldn’t overlook the more remote islands in the chain: Santa Rosa , San Miguel , and Santa Barbara Island . These islands offer wilder terrain, fewer crowds, and often more dramatic diving—including towering underwater pinnacles, massive schools of fish, and untouched kelp forests. San Miguel, in particular, is known for encounters with large marine mammals and colder, nutrient-rich waters that support deep biodiversity. These trips typically require more advanced dive planning and are best accessed through multi-day liveaboards or special trips. Weather can be a limiting factor, so flexibility and experience are key. For those ready to venture farther, these outer islands deliver some of California’s most raw and rewarding underwater experiences.

The California spiny lobster season is one of the most anticipated times of the year for divers and seafood lovers along the California Coast. Running this season from 6:00 pm on September 26, 2025 to 11:59:59 pm on March 18, 2026, this unique hunting season is not just about the thrill of the catch—it’s also about sustainability, ocean stewardship, and obeying state regulations.

Whether you're a seasoned hunter or a first-timer, here’s everything you need to know to make your lobster season safe, legal, successful, and delicious.

Banner photo: https://cdfwmarine.wordpress.com/2022/09/21/tis-the-season-for-saltwater-bugs-california-spiny-lobster-season-opens-soon/

The California spiny lobster season opens at 6:00 p.m. on the Friday preceding the first Wednesday in October and closes at 11:59:59 p.m. on the first Wednesday after the 15th of March.

TL;DR: This year, the season opens at 6:00 p.m. on Friday, September 26, 2025, and closes at 11:59:59 p.m. on Wednesday, March 18, 2026.

Here are the key regulations you need to follow:

• You must have both a California sport fishing license and a Spiny Lobster Report Card. Visit CDFW to purchase.

• South of Point Arguello (Santa Barbara County), you’ll also need an Ocean Enhancement Validation, unless you have a 1 or 2-day fishing license.

• Report cards must be returned by April 30, 2026. This data helps the department’s research and fishery management.

• Limit of 7 lobsters per person—this includes your dive bag, fridge, and freezer.

• If you have multiple hunters in your household, everyone must have their own report card and account for their share of the catch.

• Lobsters must be taken by hand—no spears, poles, or lure devices allowed.

• SCUBA and freediving are allowed.

• From piers or shore, you can use hoop nets.

• No hunting in Marine Protected Areas (MPAs)—check maps beforehand.

CDFW enforces these rules strictly. Wardens regularly check divers and pull over boats. Violations can result in fines or even jail time for serious offenses.

• Daytime: Hiding under ledges, in crevices, especially over sandy bottoms.

• Nighttime: More active and moving around—easier to spot. Some hunters believe that lobsters are even more active under a full moon!

While lobster season is over five months long, you will have better luck at the beginning of the season. The commercial season begins only a couple of days after recreational, so it's best to take advantage of the head start and get out there as soon as you can!

Lobsters can be found from the intertidal zone, all the way down past recreational diving limits. You'll have a chance to find bugs whether you are free diving or on scuba, from shore or a boat. While larger lobsters are, on average, found in deeper waters, you can still find a trophy bug in shallow depths as long as you are looking in the right places! They love structure: caves, crevices, wrecks, trenches, eel grass, and seaweed. Generally, kelp indicates areas where there is life!

• Do not store in fresh water or on ice.

• Wrap lobsters in a damp seawater-soaked towel that has been wrung out.

• Place in a cooler with a frozen water bottle.

• Keep them cool (~55°F), moist, and undisturbed until cooking.

• Eat weaker lobsters first—those missing limbs, soft shells, or recently molted won’t last as long.

• Never eat a lobster that died before cooking—it may have spoiled.

If you're in the Santa Barbara area, you’re in luck. Some of the best lobster hunting spots include:

• Channel Islands – remote, rich with marine life, and full of structure.

• Refugio State Beach – accessible from shore, popular with local divers.

Before you head out, stop by Santa Barbara Aquatics to gear up and get advice from locals.

Cave diving (scuba style) is one of the most exhilarating and challenging forms of scuba diving. It combines the technical precision of diving with the awe-inspiring experience of exploring underwater caverns and passageways. However, cave diving also carries a higher level of risk and complexity than open water diving. Whether you're just starting your cave diving journey or looking to refresh your knowledge, here are essential tips to help you dive safely and confidently.

Cave diving training focuses on mastering essential skills for safety in overhead environments. You'll learn line handling and navigation to ensure you can find your way out in low visibility, including proper guideline use, tie-offs, and navigation markers. Gas management is critical—divers are taught conservative planning techniques like the “rule of thirds” to ensure a safe return. The course also emphasizes emergency procedures , such as handling light failures, lost lines, and out-of-air situations through repeated drills. Lastly, you’ll train with cave-specific gear setups like sidemount or backmount configurations, designed for redundancy, reduced entanglement, and better maneuverability in tight spaces.

Don’t attempt a cave dive without formal training — it’s not just dangerous, it’s potentially fatal.

One of the cardinal rules of cave diving (and scuba in general) is the Rule of Thirds: Use one-third of your gas supply to go in, one-third to exit, and reserve one-third for emergencies. This principle ensures you have enough air if you or your dive buddy encounter trouble.

For sidemount or stage dives, the rule is adapted but always centers around the same principle: conservative gas planning .

Always maintain contact with the guideline — it's your lifeline back to the entrance. Silt-outs and disorientation can happen quickly, and without the line, you can lose your way very easily. Use line markers (cookies and arrows) to mark your exit direction and avoid confusing intersections.

Cave dives require meticulous planning:

• Know your entry and exit points
• Map out potential hazards
• Set depth and time limits
• Establish turn-around pressures
• Agree on hand signals and emergency protocols with your buddy

Remember the classic dive motto: Plan your dive, and dive your plan — especially critical in overhead environments.

This applies to both training and comfort level. If a cave section looks too tight, deep, or complex — turn around. Overconfidence can be deadly in cave environments. Respect the cave, and never push past your training. Sometimes the view is just as beautiful from the outside, and safety is the most important rule! 

Cave environments can induce claustrophobia or anxiety. Be honest with yourself and your buddy about how you're feeling. Constantly check your gas, lights, location, and time. Situational awareness can prevent a minor issue from becoming a full-blown emergency.

While solo cave diving exists (with specific training), most cave divers operate in buddy teams. Choose buddies with compatible training levels and experience. Communication and coordination are vital in caves — especially when navigating tight spaces or dealing with unexpected events.

Caves are fragile environments with unique ecosystems and formations. Be respectful:

• Avoid touching stalactites/stalagmites
• Don’t disturb sediments or aquatic life
• Take only photos, leave only bubbles

Responsible diving ensures caves remain pristine for future explorers.